01 - Whisk together hoisin sauce, honey, light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, brown sugar, Chinese five spice powder, minced garlic, grated ginger, red food coloring if using, and sesame oil in a large bowl until thoroughly combined. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the mixture for the glaze and set aside.
02 - Add chicken thighs to the bowl with the remaining marinade, turning to coat all pieces evenly. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight, to develop deep flavor penetration.
03 - Preheat oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and place a wire rack on top to allow air circulation and even cooking.
04 - Arrange marinated chicken thighs on the wire rack in a single layer. Roast for 15 minutes to begin cooking and rendering excess fat.
05 - While chicken roasts, combine the reserved 2 tablespoons marinade with 1 tablespoon honey in a small bowl, stirring until smooth.
06 - Remove chicken from oven and brush generously with the honey-marinade glaze. Return to oven and roast for an additional 12 to 15 minutes, brushing with glaze once more halfway through, until chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165°F and edges are nicely caramelized.
07 - Let chicken rest for 5 minutes to allow juices to redistribute. Slice against the grain and serve over steamed rice or noodles. Garnish with chopped scallions or sesame seeds if desired.